Indonesia: 4 a.m. wakeup call is more than worth it

When traveling to Indonesia, I would expect beaches and relaxation. The only decisions to be made involve choosing between a banana or strawberry daiquiri; and beach or pool. But there’s more to this country besides the beaches, and that’s why waking up at 4 a.m. was worth it on a recent stay.

By 4:30 a.m. that day in Magelang, I had an orange sarong wrapped around my waist and a flashlight in my hands. I followed the narrow paths of light carried by people in front of me so I could see where we were going. I really didn’t know what we were climbing up. Once the sidewalk ended, we encountered some sort of alleged security, where they took our tickets and we walked through a scanner. Then we were walking up steep, then steeper, rock stairs. By the time we reached the top, my body was warmed up and ready for a run. But, we were just there to sit and wait for the sunrise.

We spent that morning climbing over a ninth-century Buddhist temple by the name of Borobudur. I could use a bunch of adjectives to tell you what this is like, but instead, here are some photos.

Jakarta is also a cool city to visit. At the very least, how many people do you know have been there? Exactly. Not many. But the capital is worth visiting — just walking around is great, if you don’t mind heat and crowds. The Jakarta History Museum has impressive artifacts — my favorite being the ancient statues — and good, free tour guides who speak English well. Visit the Gereja Katedral, then walk across the street to the Istiglal Mosque.

A first experience in a mosque

This was our first mosque to ever enter, so we got a guide who my husband had read about. As we entered the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, a bored-looking man slumped in a chair behind a small desk gestured and grunted for us to take our shoes off. We did so, walking to where other people were dropping their shoes off to another man who put them in cubbies.

“Not so fast,” is what he might have been saying in his native tongue as he ushered us away from here. He took us to another man who supposedly spoke English. This man led us to a locked room, where we put our shoes in some other cubbies and signed a guest book, noting our names, where we’re from and our religion.

I can’t say the tour was good, but that’s only because I couldn’t understand a single word the guy was quietly mumbling. We walked up the marble staircases in our bare feet to overlook the main prayer room. There was a barricade not quite in the middle of the room: The smaller portion was for women, the larger for men, to pray.

It wasn’t really crowded in there, but those who were there were kneeling and bowing down ahead of them, opposite our direction. Above them was a giant, gold dome. Turned off TV screens were everywhere. We took some awkward pictures of the space around us before slapping our feet on the cold ground elsewhere.

We walked through some water, leftover from cleaning the ground, to an outdoor prayer space. The ground was all brick, with white bricks making rectangles around red bricks, noting the individual places for prayer. This also indicated the correct orientation toward Mecca. Once again, the space for men was larger than that for women, this one overwhelmingly so.

Around these outdoor spaces were covered walkways, heavily populated with what looked like homeless people. Most were still, lying flat asleep. Others were just hanging out. A couple of women were giving each other manicures. One guy begged to us. They all looked needy.

We walked back to the secret locked room for the special cubbies, where our guide did clearly pronounce the word for “donation.” We slipped a bill in and tipped our guide.

Bali lives up to its exotic name, plus monkeys!

If you’ve never been to Bali, it sounds like a cool place, doesn’t it? Even the two-syllable word has a sound that makes you think it must be something special. For a lot of people, they think of white beaches and warm temperatures, and that’s true. And while I enjoyed that part of the island, that’s not what drew me to this part of Indonesia.

You can see the culture of the country and Bali through dances, food and its people. But the best place to do this may be to go to the cultural center, Ubud.

I’ve always wanted to go to Bali. Admittedly, the only reason we added Ubud to our itinerary was because of some yogis I follow on social media who say it’s a great place to go. All of Bali is picturesque, but for quaint shops, monkeys and yoga, go to Ubud.

Monkey in the Monkey Forest (Photo by Michael Danser)

Walking along the main streets in the morning, the air is crisp and the people are quiet. Little offerings smoking with incense are in front of most shops, making it easier to just walk in the street. Rice terraces are your backdrop when you’re not on the shopping streets. It’s a small town that invigorates you just by walking through it by yourself. And, if you’re up for it, take a 90-minute yoga class at the Yoga Barn to see the best view you’ve ever had while in Virabhadrasana.

Monkeys are anything but shy in their home of Ubud’s Monkey Forest. (Photo by Michael Danser)

And, of course, there are monkeys. Actually, the little creatures that roam through Ubud Monkey Forest are Macaques, and they are anything but gentle and calm. When you walk through this park, which is a beautiful forest worth seeing without animals, they clamor right up to you, ready to take food you may have for them or to steal your iPhone. (It’s rumored that people train the monkeys to do this — they take an iPhone, and that person rewards them — supposedly.)

The monkeys aren’t the only thing to see in this forest. It’s pleasant to walk around in without the animals. (Photo by Michael Danser)

The forest is sacred for its Hindu temples. (Photo by Michael Danser)

Just outside of Ubud are spots to see growing coffee and cocao beans and taste the product. There are also a number of temples to visit. If you’ve ever had an extended stay in Asia, you’ll know the feeling of being “templed out.” Temples are everywhere. They’re cool at first, but after a while, the smell of incense and chanting all runs together. But every so often, some — such as those in Bali — stand out.

Gunung Kawi is an assortment of ancient shrines carved in rock. This Hindu temple is from the 11th century and is surrounded by rice paddies and tall, green trees. As with most cool attractions in this country, you have to wear a sarong (a strip of fabric you just tie around your waist) and go up and down about 300 steps. (Photo by Michael Danser)

Drive out a little farther, and you’ll see Tirta Empul in Tampaksiring, a holy water temple where people can bathe in holy springs. It’s crowded for people who get in and people who watch the others. (Photo by Michael Danser)

Bali is filled with tourists, from Indonesia and outside. If you don’t feel it while walking around, you can really see them at a Kecak Fire and Trance Dance. This performance of staccato chants and dancing, all in an entrancing red light, is nothing like I’ve seen. Take a look at the video for a better look.

Ubud doesn’t have an airport, so you have to get a driver to take you back to Denpasar. The drive is a whole lot better if you stop at some key points along the way, such as these.

Being at Ulun Danu Bratan Temple is surreal. Its backdrop of Beratan Lake and rolling hills makes it look too pretty to be real. 9Photo by Michael Danser)

If you haven’t seen enough water falling during your other travels, this one has a fairly leisurely walk down and up. Munduk has a long drop through the dense forest. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

Does the sight of rice terraces ever get old? I think not. Even after seeing them in the Philippines and Vietnam, these in Jatiluwih were beautiful to walk through. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

Tanah Lot is an incredible place. This is a common belief, as when we went, it was the most crowded place we visited. Temples are on the edge of cliffs, one of them is even on a small rock-island that you have to swim or walk a bit through the ocean to get to. (As with other temples, you can’t go in, just take a peek.) Waves crash into these westward-facing cliffs, which would be perfect to visit at sunset. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

Singapore’s Bitters and Love: Hard-to-find bar offers hand-crafted wizardry

You’ll love Singapore. It’s a big city with impressive architecture and more than enough to do to fill a long weekend there. You also have plenty of places to choose from when it comes to getting your evening libation. Sure, head to the Long Bar in the historic Raffles Hotel for your overpriced Singapore Sling. After you pay the bill and decide it’s not worth getting more than one, go get a real drink at Bitters and Love.

Cocktails with grape and sake (above) and persimmon and rum.

For folks reading this from Dallas, you’ll be accustomed to this establishment’s concept if you’ve been to Smyth. Go in, tell the bartender ingredients and flavors you like, and momentarily, you’ll have a hand-crafted beverage. And there’s a good chance you haven’t had anything like it.

First you have to find the place: It’s behind another restaurant. Don’t go around looking for the “Bitters & Love” sign. Instead, head to the Shoebox Canteen, make your way through those tables and through the curtain in the back to the intimate bar. A few booths line the left side, while the bar takes up the right, in the middle of which is a basket heaping with fresh fruits in season.

There is a cocktail menu at Bitters and love (with some hefty prices) but you’re encouraged to concoct something of your own.

Feel free to walk up, look at the fruits and herbs, then the liquors behind them, and craft up a few things that might go well together. The bartender will make it work.

Shogo Nakashima takes care in peeling a grape for a drink.

Recently, the bar owners decided to bring in a guest bartender from Japan. Co-owner Ernest Goh told me he brought in the bartending expert to boost business — we had drinks from both Japan’s Shogo Nakashima and the bar’s regular bartender, and both were phenomenal.

Nakashima was all business when he was concocting beverages, but when he came over, I was shocked at how at ease he was in making sure we liked our drinks. The fact that I picked out a drink with persimmon and he made it taste delectable was impressive enough for me. Admittedly, I had chosen gin, but he suggested dark rum to go with it. But he seemed to be more proud of what he made for my husband — a cocktail with (expensive) Japanese grapes and sake.

The small plates of bar food are better than you expect, but they’re overshadowed by the skill of the hands behind the bar.

On a recent visit, Goh couldn’t have been friendlier, making sure everything was to our liking. While we couldn’t be more impressed with our experience, when I asked him how business was, he mentioned the steep competition Singapore offers. Here’s hoping that people realize the treat they have in this small bar; it would be a waste if they miss it.

There’s more to do than gamble in Macau

When taking a ferry to most islands around Hong Kong, all you have to do is pay for ferry tickets; no showing your passport or other ID. If you are up for an hour-long ferry ride and a quick trip through customs, you can head to Macau. This island is a major attraction for area tourists because of its huge and popular casinos. The revenue from these places accounts for about 50 percent of the island’s economy and amounts to seven times more than the gambling industry in Las Vegas.

Bright lights cover enormous hotels that have bustling, smokey casinos inside. If you’re in to play, go for it. Though it’s a real commitment to bet: In the Venetian recently, the minimum gambling price for a hand of blackjack was about $130.

If throwing money at a game of baccarat isn’t your thing, there’s more to see on this island. In fact, even if you love your time at a betting table, you should get outside and check out the the historic center of Macau.

The history and architecture of Macau make it worth a trip.

Macau was originally known as Ou Mun, “trading gate,” because it’s in a perfect location for trading. While the British went for Hong Kong, the Portuguese went for Macau. They reached the island in the 1550s and ended up giving the island its current name. Macau became a meeting point between East and West cultures, and it’s evident in the churches, architecture and people’s names.

You can’t miss the front of A-Ma Temple — for its decoration, nor the crowd of “photographers” in front of it.

Even if you think you’ve had your fill of visiting temples in Asia, the A-Ma Temple may trample some others. For one thing, it’s the oldest in Macau, dating to 1488 of the Ming Dynasty. Simply put, the walk up the ancient staircases will make you feel special.

The Mandarin’s House was built before 1869 and displays design details that intertwine those of both Chinese and Western influences. The residential compound is quite large with several courtyard houses. It was the home of prominent Chinese literary figure Zheng Guanying, whose father started the building of the house.

Zheng’s brothers ended up expanding the complex. Unfortunately, the ownership left family hands when the descendants started to live in different places in the 1950s and ‘60s. The house was rented out, at one point containing 300 tenants (as expected, with less than acceptable living conditions).

The government did come to the rescue, even if it were too late. It took proprietorship in 2001, but by then, about 80 percent of the complex was suffering from damage. It’s been repaired and preserved, making it presentable to take a stroll through it and soak in the enchanting architecture.

Do take the time to go through airy courtyards, spacious rooms and narrow walkways. The detail in design will have you looking up at ceilings and down at floors with each step.

Mandarin’s House, Macau

Mandarin’s House, Macau

Mandarin’s House, Macau

Mandarin’s House, Macau

In contrast to Hong Kong, there are plenty of historic churches to see here. These include St. Lawrence’s Church, St. Joseph’s Seminary and Church, St. Augustine’s Church, St. Dominic’s Church and St. Anthony’s Church. Each is humbly beautiful in its own way.

St. Lawrence’s Church, Macau

St. Augustine’s Church, Macau

If you’re interested in something really ancient looking, walk up the steps to the ruins of St Paul’s. The Church of Mater Dei built the structure from 1602-1640, but it was destroyed by a fire in 1835. Conveniently enough, the impressive facade of St. Paul’s College is the only thing still standing. The church had stood adjacent to the college. Apparently, the archaeological remains of the former college are evidence that this was the first Western-style university in the Far East. This site is, symbolically, an altar to the city.

The grand, historic front of St. Paul’s College still stands.

If visiting Hong Kong, don’t overlook the outlying islands

If you’re traveling from the States all the way to Hong Kong, you’re probably going to spend more than a couple of days in the area. There’s a lot to see and learn in the city, but while you’re over there, you might as well check out what the outlying islands have to offer. After all, they’re just a short (and cheap) ferry ride away from Hong Kong island.

There’s a lot to explore on Hong Kong, along with other islands around it.

One spot you can’t miss on Lantau Island is the  All 34 meters (just over 111 feet) of this Big Buddha were completed in 1993. It faces Mainland China, atop a climb of 268 steps. The monastery is opposite the statue and provides colorful iconography to see.

The Tian Tan Buddha is informally known as the Big Buddha.

Po Lin Monastery can be seen among the peaceful landscape from the top of the Big Buddha.

Lantau also offers a history of fishermen, where you can find houses built on stilts. These homes go back generations, with families living in their tight-knit community just above the tidal flats of the island. It’s very possible that you’ll feel like you’re intruding here. The locals continue in their work as tourists walk their streets, taking pictures of everything. (And some locals really don’t like that — ask before you take photos of them.)

The stilt houses are in a fishing village by the name of Tai O on Lantau Island.

You’ll feel less noticed on the island of Cheung Chau, which is a destination for plenty of tourists, including locals from Hong Kong. The small, crowded island feels like a beach town: lots of color, street vendors and people lugging towels to the beach. It’s a fun spot to get some street food, then spend an afternoon in the sun. This is also where the yearly Cheung Chau Bun Festival happens.

Bicycles are a popular mode of transportation on the small and dense Cheung Chau island.

Cheung Chau has been a fishing community since the 14th century.

Next up, you’ll find a post about another fun place that’s just a one-hour ferry ride from Hong Kong.

Stairway to Heaven? Elephant Mountain comes close

Taipei 101 literally stands out among the rest of the buildings in the city. You’re able to see it at almost any high point around, but the best opportunity is on Elephant Mountain.

Back in the States, a hike say, in Colorado, means an uphill walk on dirt, not stairs. Well, to get up this mountain (which in height really can’t compare to the Rockies) you’re heading up stairs. The hike up is about 20 minutes or so — though there’s a stopping point in the middle with a worthwhile view, which could delay you.

Most of these steps are shallow, so much so that it’s not comfortable. But don’t worry — once you’re up near the very top and really starting to get tired, there’s a stack of incredibly steep ones.

You’ll be tired and probably pretty sweaty. But the view from there, right around sunset, is more than worth it.

In Taipei, taste lasts forever in converted cooking oil shop

You know when you bite into something so delicious, you close your eyes and think for a moment that you’ve never tasted anything so wonderful? You keep your eyes shut as you chew, just wanting the experience to draw out as long as it can.

If you don’t know what I’m talking about, go to Taipei. Specifically, Ding Tai Fung, a dumpling house in this Taiwanese city.

The pork xiao long bao at Din Tai Fung are filled with juicy, savory meat. After you fill your small dish with soy sauce, vinegar and ginger, you pick up your xiao long bao and dip it in. You then put that in your spoon, poke a hole in it, which will release the broth. Slurp the whole spoon in to get ever flavor. (Photo by Michael Danser)

There’s a lot to choose from on the menu (which is thankfully in English along with Chinese) but it’ll behoove you to first look at the xiao long bao. These are steamed dumplings: small, wrapped pillows of savory meat.

The best dumplings I had ever had before this were at Jeng Chi in Richardson, Texas. While I stand by the fact that those are good, my experience with xiao long bao isn’t extensive. But I do have experience with deliciousness, and Ding Tai Fung has that.

The spicy shrimp and pork wontons were one of the most flavorful dishes on the table. And the menu isn’t joking when labeling this one “spicy.” (Photo by Michael Danser)

The pork xiao long bao is classic and a savory taste you’ll never want to forget. If buns are your thing, there are pork, vegetarian and red bean options to choose from. Another standout is a simple staple: fried rice.

This restaurant has locations all over the world. In addition to its headquarters in Taiwan, these dumplings can be found in South Korea, the U.S and Malaysia, to name a few. It all started in Taipei in 1958 — but there were no chefs crafting dumplings back then. The business was a cooking oil retail shop. In the early 1970s, the business was having trouble and converted into a restaurant by 1972.

The restaurant has received attention: It was rated among the Top 10 Restaurants of the World by The New York Times in 1993, and its Hong Kong branch has earned one Michelin star each year since 2010. I don’t know why that location is allegedly better than the original. It’s hard to fathom something better.

You’ll have to test your patience a bit to get a small table in the joint. On a recent Saturday at 11 a.m., the wait was 70 minutes for a two-top. That being said, there’s a good chance you might not visit again soon, so go ahead and fill your table with as many boxes as you can.

There are plenty of reasons to plan a trip to Taipei — the xiao long bao at Ding Tai Fung should be at the top of that list.

The vegetarian mushroom bun had plenty of filling. The flavor seemed weak relative to the dumplings and wontons. Other bun fillings include red bean and sesame. (Photo by Michael Danser)

Digital displays let customers know how long the wait is. Waiting customers are given a number, which are also displayed for the crowd to easily see. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

Din Tai Fung has multiple locations, with its original still busy in Taipei. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

Staff members aren’t afraid to pile on the trays of xiao long bao that are in such high demand. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

 

7 things that caught my eye in Tokyo

Shops are lined leading up to the Sensoji Temple in Tokyo. (Photo by Michael Danser)

1. The crowds aren’t overwhelming
Thirteen million people live in Tokyo. Eight million more commute in for work every day. That’s a lot, but it’s a big place. Unless you’re one to really freak out in a large crowd, you’re going to be OK. Only in Shibuya (where you’ll find the famous intersection that’s deemed the busiest in the world) might you feel cramped — and that’s really only if it’s raining and everyone is walking, running each other over with umbrellas above their heads.

2. You need to study up
In some Asian countries, we hear that English is spoken plenty, such as in the Philippines. You might have some difficulty outside of your hotel if you don’t know Japanese. My mother spent four years in Japan when she was growing up. Before I made this trip, she gave me key words: “Thank you,” “Good morning,” “Good afternoon,” “Please.” Yeah, that’s not enough. Try to take a taxi and neither party will understand the other. We weren’t too surprised at this (though, we were stuck in our current location without transportation at the time), but our guide was disappointed. Tokyo will host the Olympics in 2020. You can see that the city is already gearing up for it — banners bearing “Olympics 2020” with graphics of the rings and flowers are here and there. But English needs to be spoken more around the city, the guide said. They have six years. I’m sure they can do it. But, I admire them for that effort. I think it would take me longer than that to get a full grasp of Japanese.

Rules and laws aren’t meant to be broken. (Photo by Taylor Danser)

3. Rules matter
Japanese people are reserved, our guide told us. It’s evident in many ways they conduct themselves. One of these is that they keep to the left. Always. Sure, they drive on the left side of the road, so it’s natural that they would walk on the left, too. But, as many use the city’s subway system, they also use this custom there. Take any escalator up standing on the right side, and you’re sure to look like an ignorant foreigner. And, you’ll see each person standing in an extremely straight line to the left. The right side is for folks who choose to run up. A lot of people do wait on the escalator — they’re walking around so much already, they have you, me and most other Americans beat in their number of steps each day.

4. Patience is key
This helps in following rules. In most places you’ve been in the states, you’ve either jay walked or seen people jay walk, especially in New York. Have you ever stood at an intersection and not seen people walking while the red hand is still telling them to hold still? You will in Tokyo. Even on the smallest street with a stop light: It’s after rush hour, there’s no traffic and the sidewalks on either side of the street are packed with people standing still, waiting for the light. It sounds minor, but it looks weird. You’ll look weirder if you cross when you’re not supposed to. If you want more evidence that patience is an important virtue here, take a look at any restaurant that has gotten some publicity in print or on TV recently: locals will line up, standing patiently in the cold for more than an hour for something such as popcorn or pancakes. If it’s popular, people are really willing to wait to get it.

The Tsukiji Fish Market has plenty to offer — whale, fish you haven’t heard of, and plenty of large tuna. (Photo by Michael Danser)

5. Fish is a bigger deal than you think
A lot of us love sushi. We might have our favorite places to get our fix of the fish-topped rice in our hometowns, and we all know they’re not going to compare to what people are eating in Japan. You’d be right about that. You’d also be right if you suspected the dedication to eating creatures from the sea extends beyond that. You might have heard of the famous Tsukiji Fish Market. It will give you an idea of how this area thrives on it. The space where it is now is about 90 years old. In two years, they’ll reconstruct it in a different area of Tokyo, not far from where the Olympics will be held. Want a traditional Japanese breakfast? Expect some fish (and fermented soybean) in there.

6. It’s really clean
When most people think about an urban area, whether it’s modest in size like Dallas or densely packed like Manhattan, they probably don’t picture clean sidewalks. You might imagine black circles on the pavement of old, spit-out gum, overflowing trash cans and plastic wrappers blowing in the wind along the edge of the street. Not in Tokyo — the place is almost spotless. What’s weirder is that it’s almost impossible to find a trash can in most public places. Cleanliness is important here, even if that might mean most people have pockets full of trash in their coats.

7. It’s safe
Despite there being a lot of people in this city, you’re safe to walk around. Bikes are parked everywhere — when I asked our guide if people worry about them being stolen, she looked at me like I was crazy. She even took us down a dark, narrow alley way. When I said it seemed sketchy, she assured me again that there was nothing to worry about: “Tokyo’s very safe.”

Have you been to Tokyo or other parts of Japan? What surprised you?